Zinfandel is a red wine variety celebrated around the world that is still to make its mark in Australia, something NSW winemaker David Lowe is determined to change.
The staple variety of Sonoma, California is one of the most popular wine varieties in the United States. Food & Wine says “Zinfandel is to American wine as jazz is to American music: The taproot to which so much else traces its history and development.”
“As far as Zinfandel goes in the glass, one sip and it becomes immediately clear why you should drink Zinfandel: It is generous, often ripe, and with plenty of spice throughout,” Food & Wine says.
“It does well in warmer temperatures, develops enough sugar to produce wine of often serious power and richness, and is incredibly food-friendly, especially alongside spicy or sauce-slathered grilled or barbecued meats.”
The varietal is also known as ‘Primitivo’ in Italy. According to Wine Companion you’ll love it if you enjoy warm-climate Australian shiraz.
“This black-skinned varietal is known for producing still red wines with high alcohol levels, bold flavours, significant tannins and an impenetrable garnet hue,” it says.
Mudgee-based Lowe (above) says Zinfandel is well-adapted to Australia’s warming climate and he is proudly demonstrating the impressive cellaring potential of the wine in two new limited releases: Lowe Zinfandel 2017 and Lowe Zinfandel 2021.
Side by side, the wines offer a taste of how the wine’s character can drastically evolve with time in the bottle.
Lowe’s obsession with Zinfandel began during his stint working at Peterson Winery in Sonoma, California, a wine region that bears many similarities to Mudgee, including a Mediterranean inland climate and a gold mining history. During this time, Lowe worked closely with the variety and upon his return to Australia, began growing it on his Mudgee winery, but with limited success.
“I have a love-hate relationship with Zinfandel, as it’s taken me over a decade of trial and error to get right,” he said.
“I had to forget everything I had learned and throw the rule book out the window. It’s nothing like growing Shiraz or Cabernet. Zinfandel grapes can get big if you let them—the bunches can be 10 times bigger than Shiraz bunches and up to 1.5 kilos in weight. Although they look impressive, the bigger the Zinfandel, the more diluted the flavour,” comments Lowe.
“My trick—treat Zin mean. You’ve got to stress the vines. Don’t irrigate them, don’t trellis them. When you get it right, you can create a generous, powerful wine with a beautiful softness. A great Zinfandel has a Christmas cake flavour to it, and the tannins can be deliciously soft. When done right, Zinfandel can be the most impressive wine of all.”
Despite its challenges, Lowe said that due to Australia’s changing climate, Zinfandel may replace Australia’s classic reds on wine menus in the future.
“Over the last few years, I’ve been researching how the climate in Mudgee is forecast to change in the next 30 years to be more selective about the varieties I grow in the vineyard based on these predictions,” he said.
“Zinfandel is drought-resistant, suited to warming temperatures, and requires fewer resources to grow, so I see this as a staple variety for now and for the next thirty years.”
The 2017 Lowe Zinfandel (RRP of $120) is medium-bodied with a soft mouthfeel. Lowe considers this wine the best in his collection. It is uniquely Australian and extremely food-friendly. The wine is fragrant in red fruits, with an overtone of raisins and Christmas cake. The Oak maturation is understated and subtle throughout the flavour.
The 2021 Lowe Zinfandel (RRP $95) has glazed fruits and Christmas cake aromas, with a palate that tastes like it smells without the sweetness. The wine is already soft and silky, but with five to 10 years of patience, Lowe says this wine will continue to grow with bottle age, appearing sweeter and gaining a longer mouthfeel.
Lowe Zinfandel 2017 and Lowe Zinfandel 2021 are now available from lowefamilywineco.com.au