Cronulla is on the fast-track to becoming one of Sydney’s hottest foodie destinations and two local hospitality icons – brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas – are taking the beachside suburb to the next level with their new restaurant, Homer Rogue Taverna.
The gritty Athenian-style eatery is located on the same block as the brothers’ famed Ham cafe and is serving up charcoal-roasted souvla, signature gyros and family recipes including Harry and Mario’s mum’s moussaka.
The restaurant is already a celebrity drawcard, with recent diners include radio presenter Jackie O and celebrity chef George Calombaris (above with Harry).
In contrast to the elevated Greek restaurants that have taken Sydney by storm, Homer delivers a casual experience akin to the buzzy, laidback tavernas that line the streets of Athens. And it was definitely buzzing on the night Drinks Digest visited, crammed with everyone from glamorous Gen Z groups to Greek grandfathers gathering for a boys’ night out.
The eclectic decor at Homer includes mid-20th century chairs and sconces – prominent fixtures of Athenian tavernas – which tastefully complement the modern, industrial fitout, which features a popcorn ceiling, terrazzo flooring, chicken wire frosted glass, exposed brick of the original build and a graffitied wall.
Harry and Mario are fantastic hosts, weaving between the busy tables with welcoming smiles. Harry says Homer has been designed to look like it has been around forever, but with a modern twist, which is how the word rogue made its way into the name.
“It’s a nod to our past and our present, with a little bit of boundary pushing thrown in,” he explains.
“Homer isn’t your average Sydney restaurant. It’s a place where you’re welcome whether you’re still in your thongs after a day at the beach, enjoying a family meal or celebrating a special occasion.
“At its heart it’s about people coming together for a good time, good food and good drinks, with an atmosphere that reflects that.”
The Kapoulas’ have thrown out the rule book when it comes to Homer’s menu, too.
The menu features a broad selection of small plates divided into sections, from breads and pickles to dips, small classics, rotisserie, stews, sides, a family dish and dessert, all of which will come out in no particular order, as they’re cooked.
Drinks Digest feasted on dishes including prawn flatbreads cooked in the custom woodfired oven; koulouri sesame (Greek bagel) paired with tirokafteri (spicy cheese dip), taramas (fish roe) and fava; fabulous grilled souvlaki octopus; and a playful take on stifado, a traditional stew that’s wrapped in a chicken skin emulsion to resemble a smoking cigar.\
As for the drinks menu, we kicked off with $10 martini mouthfuls, then sampled a few delicious Greek wines by the glass.
Customers are also encouraged to get out of their seats to select their wine of choice from the three-metre-tall, custom-built wine fridge.
You’ll find Homer Rogue Taverna at 3/3 Surf Road, Cronulla NSW.