Australia’s largest gluten-free beer brand, TWØBAYS Brewing Co., has officially opened the doors to its Melbourne flagship venue, The Freehouse.
The 170-capacity bar and restaurant has been enthusiastically welcomed by both the local community and gluten intolerant and coeliac foodies across the city, with its gluten-free tap list and produce-led menu championing Victorian growers and seasonal ingredients.
Drinks Digest’s Melbourne editor and coeliac Deb Washington went along to The Freehouse’s official launch to put the new venue through its paces.
Bar & restaurant review: The Freehouse
Having been diagnosed with coeliac disease almost 15 years ago, I’ve experienced all the trials, tribulations and frustrations of navigating safely eating out. From inexperienced wait and kitchen staff; shared serving utensils; dishes listed as gluten free on the menu that are not truly gluten free (combined fryers are a killer); the green envy of missing out; the guilt that comes with choosing the set menu and limiting the dining options of friends and family—it’s a minefield for coeliacs that most simply don’t understand.
I’d pretty much given up on ever having a decent beer again until TWØBAYS opened in 2018 on the Mornington Peninsula. I was one of its earliest customers and I’ve taken many groups there over the years.
My husband is a big craft beer fan and he has always been impressed by the quality of the brews created by owner Richard Jeffares and his team. We were both excited to learn that the brewer had ambitious plan to open a dedicated gluten-free restaurant and bar in Melbourne and it was wonderful to experience it in person.
The Freehouse is tucked just off Gipps Street on Rokeby Street in Collingwood and is surrounded by popular eateries and bars. A cool converted industrial brick building bearing a simple, but impressive FH sign gives some clues to what you might expect inside. Enter and you find a large and impressive space with a soaring pitched exposed truss ceiling, concrete floor and warm brown timber tones throughout.
The long bar is inviting with an impressive 24 taps, featuring 15 of TWØBAYS craft beers and a curated choice of wine, ciders and cocktails. The taps are complemented by a stunning wine and spirit list, all carefully selected from across Victoria’s great wineries and distilleries. It was especially gratifying to see some of TWØBAYS’s neighbours from the Mornington Peninsula featured on the drinks menu.
The Freehouse space is broadly separated into a casual open area at the front, with a pool table, a mix of high top and low tables and plenty of space to mingle. Between that and the kitchen at the back are more formal eating areas, including a long bar table right in front of the kitchen where you can enjoy the food and watch and chat to the kitchen team as they prepare your fabulous food.
There are also two very cool private dining/event spaces off to the side opposite the bar. Sheer curtains give these spaces some privacy and heavy sliding doors provide soundproof private dining if desired.
A DJ was playing smooth tracks during the night and despite the cavernous space the sound levels were very comfortable. The Freehouse has clearly had some very clever and carefully thought-out acoustics designed as it was easy to hear and talk despite the generous crowd.
Early in the evening we met Charlie and Clara, two of the service team who were delightfully mingling with the crowd pre-service and sharing their great experience of working at The Freehouse. Generous with their time and curious about our thoughts, it was lovely to have a good chat.
Along with the serving of food they popped over a few other times during the evening and showed me around (I learnt from them how the private dining areas had soundproof doors). If Charlie and Clara are indicative of the friendliness and warmth of the service team then seated dining will be a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
My mission for the night was to sample some TWØBAYS beers I had not tried before. My first choice was Cerveza, a ‘Mexi-can’ inspired beer that was deliciously easy to drink and paired perfectly with the South American-inspired menu.
My husband tried the Pacific Ale, which he said stacked up well against his favoured gluten equivalent. I also tried the Luna IPA. At 6.8% ABV it’s a perfect sipping beer full of wonderful fruity flavours … perhaps my new favourite! As designated driver, my husband sensibly chose the Session Ale next, a mid-strength but full-flavoured option.
I finished with a Lager, described as an easy drinking version of a German Pilsner, and it did not disappoint. My husband finished the night with a Czech Dark Lager, which he described as a lager that picks up some of the darkness and bitterness of a stout, carrying those classic dark chocolate and coffee notes. It was an unusual beer with a wonderful warmth to it.
The true test for me was always going to be the food. Head Chef Matt Kennedy and his team have excelled with the South American-inspired menu.
We enjoyed roasted red pepper hummus toasts, a scrumptious mouthful on a perfect base that defies the belief that it is gluten free. The 18-month-cured Jamon serrano with honey melon was lovely. The mini pumpkin bites finished with annatto seasoning with creamed pepitas, cumin onions and malted millet were delightful.
Mini lamb skewers with a gorgeous yellow aji yoghurt spiced dressing tasted delicious, while the Picanha (rump cap) cups were cooked to perfection, super tender and full of flavour.
I had two stand-out favourite dishes. The first was a crispy roasted potato served with grilled halloumi and herbs that I could eat all day. But the best of the best, without doubt, were the beef empanadas—the most perfect short crust pastry filled with slow-cooked brisket and potato, served with a gorgeous salsa. I simply cannot believe they have managed to make such a perfect dish gluten free. I don’t know how I will ever visit and not choose these from the menu.
We finished the night with two lovely desserts, which I believe were mini versions of the caramel flan and cocoa layer cake (Dolce de leche, dark chocolate ) from the menu. A fabulous way to finish the night.
Nearing the end of the evening we were treated to a short speech by the brewery’s founder. Richard Jeffares shared his passion for local produce and producers and his commitment to serve a menu that can be enjoyed by all without compromise.
He described how he had envisaged the space working, with people coming in for a drink and maybe some fun around the pool table, then moving through the space later for dinner. And a flow in the opposite direction, from the dining area to a more casual gathering around the bar, pool table and television to round out the night. That vision has come to fruition in a wonderful space we thoroughly enjoyed.
As the evening drew close we were both on our phones checking our commitments to see when we could book a table for dinner. The Freehouse will be high on our list of future dining options.