Winter dining traditionally calls for a full-bodied red in Australia, but until recently non-alc wine drinkers struggled to find credible alternatives.

According to Australia’s leading non-alc wine producer, Edenvale, there are now small but growing number of local winemakers producing genuinely premium alcohol-free wines that are designed to sit properly with hearty food.

These aren’t sugary substitutes – they’re dry, structured and intended to be poured with dishes such as roast lamb the same way traditional wine would be.

Non-alcoholic red wine is considered the most difficult category to replicate because alcohol provides the essential “body” and structure that balanced tannins require. While sparkling and white non-alcoholic wines use carbonation or high acidity to balance the absence of alcohol, red wines often fall short on mouthfeel and aromatic complexity.

That’s finally starting to change. Edenvale winemaker Aaron Milne (above) has spent more than a decade developing and operating his own dealcoholisation system meaning he’s involved in every stage of the process, from making the base wine to rebuilding structure and balance once the alcohol is removed.

His wines are now being recognised internationally, with Edenvale named Low & No Producer of the Year at the London International Wine & Spirits Competition.

Milne says non-alcoholic wine has reached the same turning point that alcohol-free beer did a few years ago where it can finally stand on its own as a credible drink for the table, rather than an afterthought.

And making great non-alcoholic red wine is his latest passion. His Edenvale Grenache Shiraz Mataro is already winning global awards and he’s currently perfecting a Coonawarra Cabernet.

Drinks Digest sat down with Milne for the lowdown on how the non-alcoholic wine category has evolved.

Q: Non-alcoholic wine has reached the same turning point that alcohol-free beer did a few years ago. What do you think is driving that?

A: I think it’s a combination of ongoing improvements and investment in technology, along with drinkers
having a much better understanding of non-alcoholic wine.

On the production side, years of incremental improvement and continued investment in better de-alcoholisation technology have made a real difference. We’re now able to retain more of the wine’s structure, texture and aromatic complexity than ever before, which has lifted quality significantly.

At the same time, drinkers have evolved. There’s a much greater understanding and acceptance of non- alcoholic wine as a considered choice at the table, rather than a substitute or afterthought. People are approaching it with the same expectations they would any other premium beverage, and that shift in perception has helped drive the category forward.

Q: Why do you think Australian non-alcoholic wines are leading the world?

A: Australia has been at the forefront of non-alc wine from the very beginning. The Spinning Cone Column, which kicked off the industry a few decades back, was developed in Australia by Flavourtech. This was a flavour extractor, adapted for wine use by some clever blokes, during an energetic time in the Australian wine industry where there was a lot of positivity, investment and a general positive approach to risk and adventure.

We are now reaping the rewards, and building upon the experience gained by those early trailblazers. Michael Bright saw the opportunity early and started Edenvale 20 years ago. We do have new technology now, but Aussies led the charge back in the day, we just need to stay in front.

Q: Winter is red wine weather – how do you ensure Edenvale’s non-alcoholic reds have the depth to accompany hearty fare like roast lamb?

A: Okay, the reds are definitely tough. These are the hardest wines to make as the alcohol softens tannins and acidity, fleshes the wine out, and sweetens the wine to make the tannin and acid tolerable. For us, we focus heavily on building the body and replacing sweetness, and then working with oak to try and recreate something that can go with a nice fatty cut of lamb.

We’re constantly pushing ourselves here. We’re currently working on a Coonawarra Cabernet, which is like the no-alcohol Mt Everest. It’s challenging, but that’s exactly where you learn the most, and we’re excited about what we’ll learn from it.

Q: What’s your perfect winter wine and food pairing?

A: Like most Aussies, I’m a sucker for a slow-roasted lamb shoulder. I’d pair that with Edenvale’s Grenache Shiraz Mataro, made from quality fruit out of the Fleurieu Peninsula and Barossa Valley. It’s got lifted aromas of violet, raspberry pastille and vanilla, with subtle notes of orange zest, charcuterie and sweet spice. Plenty of depth and complexity to stand up to a hearty dish like that.

Looking ahead, I’d love to be making that same pairing with our Coonawarra Cabernet once it’s ready – that’s the goal!